Kayak

Capturing Those Great Moments: A brief guide to Photography From A Kayak

The beauty of water is one of the primary pleasures of kayaking.

But when it comes to capturing that beauty in a photograph - that glorious coastline, those glistening rocks on a white water course or that wonderful riverbank wildlife - one thing is clear: us paddlers don't have it easy.

First the practical problems: restricted movement, hands preoccupied with paddles, sea spray damage to lenses and/or filters and the ever-present risk of capsize.

Then there's the aesthetic issues: photographic light is at its best at the coldest times to be out on the water (crack of dawn and sunset) and the perpetual risk of camera shake which is part and parcel of shooting from a moving vessel.

But with perseverence and forward planning great kayak photography is within everybody's grasp and the images we'll take home will offer a unique vantage point on the water world we love.

When to paddle with a camera...

Paddling under the midday sun is certainly warmer. The downside is that the light is often harshest at this time of day. The best times to get to your chosen shooting point is either at sunrise or sunset, when the light is low and the tonal contrasts between the sky and the water or land are at their lowest. The light can also be at its most pleasing at these times of day. There is, however, a problem in this for the kayaker. Shooting at low light means longer exposure times, higher ISOs (film speed or its digital equivalent) and wider apertures (or a combination of these three). While a landscape photographer can set up a tripod to reduce camera movement, the kayaker - if she stays in the kayak - cannot.

There are two options here. The first is to reach dry land and set up a tripod to capture an image (something I've done many a time). The second is to maximize the amount of light reaching your film/sensor whilst trying to avoid boat movement. The latter is usually most successful in the early morning because there's generally less wind about, which means the water is relatively still. If you're on rcalm water, and you are using a compact camera, you can use your paddle to steady the camera while you take your shot. To see how this can be done click here. It is also worth considering using a small tripod (if your hull is of the wider variety). Although this won't necessarily stop the boat moving, it will reduce hand-generated camera shake.

What type of camera is best for kayak photography?

As somebody who nearly watched £400 of Canon DSLR plunge to the bottom of Derwentwater last year, I might not be best qualified to answer this! Since that experience, my Nikon D200 and expensive lenses have stayed on dry land (or sealed up in a watertight container to be used on dry land). And there's not just the risk of your camera performing a free dive or kayak roll to contend with, there's also the problem of saltwater spray damaging the front lens element. On an expensive lens, that's a cost you can do without.

 I now use a compact digital which I keep in the pocket of my PFD. It's never more than eight inches from my chin when I'm out on the water. A number of makers offer some excellent compacts which are either waterproof or water resistant. Among them are the Pentax Optio W60 which is relatively inexpensive and does a fine job and the Olympus MJU-1050sw, also a sterling performer at a decent price. Many camera models can also be housed in their own waterproof casing.

What do I take pictures of?

Anything and everything, or somewhere special. What we choose to take pictures of is an entirely personal matter. Every kayaker will have paddled somewhere that made them stop and go "wow". If a particular location makes you go "wow", chances are it'll make somebody else go "wow" - if you get a good exposure.

And the only way to maximise the chances of getting a great image is to practice, practice, practice. My advice would be to take as many shots as you can, learn about the way light works (especially its peculiar and wonderful relationship with water) and how to compose a picture (more of that later).

I will often plan my kayaking route with particular photographic "pit stops" in mind, and aim to be at that location at the best time for the light. But chance discoveries and the unexpected are one of the joys offered by both kayaking and photography - and they're the ones that leave the lasting smile on your face.

One thing I would say as that a photograph of nothing but water and sky is unlikely to make for an interesting photograph unless the sky is dramatic and you get a great reflection (or shimmer) off the water. Generally, the interesting elements in a kayaking photograph will be found in the interruptions to the sky-water mix - rocks, cliffs, river banks, wildlife, boats, other kayakers etc.

Compsosing a photograph from a kayak...

If you're photographing on water, chances are there'll be a horizon in most shots you take. The first thing about horizons is to try and make sure it is level. Get this wrong and photographs immediately look uncomfortable and, unless that's part of the idea, you'll want to get it level.

Another element of composition we've got to be aware of is directing the viewer to the area of interest. This does not necessarily mean plopping it bang in the centre. Placing a main subject off centre is usually more pleasing to the eye and most photographers follow a principle called the "rule of thirds". This involves breaking an image into three sections both vertically and horizontally. You'll want to place your areas of interest along these lines (generally) rather than putting the horizon line in the middle.

So, if you've got an incredible cloudy sky, you'll want your horizon falling on the lower third, allowing the sky to dominate the upper two thirds of the frame. If the cloud is dull but there's some great scenery below, you'll want to do the reverse.

One of the most neglected elements amongst photography beginners is the foreground. The foreground should be something interesting that helps to lead the viewer through the picture. It might be a person, a rock formation, a duck or a wave. Finding a great foreground can really add to the impact of an image by giving it an additional dimension, a sense of perspective, an anchor.

If you're hoping to include something of interest and its reflection in the water, try and get both the object and its entire reflection in the image.

Finally, if you're using a compact - especially one without a powerful zoom - you'll want to get up close and personal with your subject. This is because many compacts will make your main subject look further away than it appears to the naked eye. One of the great things about kayaking is you usually can get up close because a kayak is both quiet and manouvreable in very shallow water. If you want a photo of ducks, you've got a better chance of gliding over to them in a kayak than by pretty much any other method I can think of.

To include the kayak or not to include the kayak...that is a question

Many images taken from kayaks include the bow in the image. Whether or not to include the deck is entirely a matter of personal taste.

Personally, although I can see how it explains where the photograph was taken from and some kayak bows are reasonably shapely, I think it ruins the picture. Why? Because unless the subject of the photograph is the boat, it's nothing more than a distraction. I've taken pictures from inside my car, but it has never occured to me to include the window frame in the image (wing mirror maybe!) because what lies beyond is usually more interesting.

If you're unsure, try both and see which image you like best.